Posted on April 28, 2013
Biarritz was only this morning but it feels like decades past. The train back to Paris hurtled so fast through the countryside, you’d think it was on the run, and I couldn’t help but think that the ocean now felt small, like some sort of tableaux in sepia, a blue dream I had in the morning to then wake in a cold metropolis. Truth be told, I’m having a tough time making adjustments, of finding my way back. It occurs to me that I’ve spent much of this time thinking, so much so that it sometimes feels dangerous, as I have a habit of so easily slipping into a life vibrantly lived in my head.
Instead, I share the pretty diversions, the edited for television version of these past three weeks, simply because there are things that should always be kept offline. I don’t want to be figured out or resolved. I want to be the person who sorts out my life, and lately I’ve been recoiling from people who dole out unsolicited advice like sweets, tell me I should be doing this, that or whatever. At times my reactions have been visceral, irrational, abrasive because I can sense in their words and facial expressions that they want a kind of closure, a finishing of sorts. They want me to snap to it, be the Felicia they want to know or think they know. They want a refreshed LinkedIn page that puts an end to all that. They want to say, so, we’re done here, right?
Even if their words imply none of the above, right now I just need to hold up my DO NOT DISTURB sign. I need to surround myself with people who are comfortable with the words, I don’t know. I need to be around people who put down their phone while we’re eating.
Oh dear. I just realized I was supposed to write about pastry, wasn’t I?
The good news is that you can’t really get a terrible sweet experience in Biarritz. While it’s true there are fanciful shops that will make you gasp over the cost of a piece of chocolate (most of which are located along the waterfront), Biarritz offers incredible chocolates, breads and Basque treats that had me shaking from sugar. My favorite was the very simple gateaux basque, a cake-cum-tart with a crumbly, semolina consistency that is filled with cherry compote, cream or chocolate. From the cracked crust to the delicate filling juxtaposed with the dense texture of the cake, you’ll fawn over the texture + flavor plays. It’s so simple, yet, SO PERFECT.
My choice spots are Real Chocolate (bark chocolate that will have you keeling over from the richness), Maison Adam (finally, a macaron I can actually tolerate!), Le Secret des Pain (the best loaves of bread, beignets and cakes you’ll have in Biarritz), Gateaux Basque at the Miremont (with an ocean view that isn’t too shabby) + all the local boulangeries in Les Halles.
Trying so hard to slow that train down…
Posted on April 13, 2013

Right now you should know that I’m distracted. Today I spent the day traveling through the Tuscan countryside, and I started jotting down notes on an essay on masks. So far I’m calling it: “A Disturbance on One Face.” The essay is a fusion of personal narrative and cultural madness. From Joan Didion’s “White Album” essay to the Susan Faludi profile of Shulie Firestone to the Clark Rockefeller trial, from Picasso to Dostoyevsky, the The Red Shoes fairytale and an episode of The Twilight Zone, I’ve become fixated on the mask that is one’s face. The internal fissure, the external cracking. So it’s hard, as you can imagine, to turn back the clock and talk about what happened yesterday when all I want to do is get on with the work.
Hemingway once said that one should never write until the well is bone dry. You still need to tread to the deep, so lay down the pen and walk away, and come back when the well swells and threatens to drown again. Or something to that effect.
But I digress.
On the way to find the Mercato Centrale, a place that has been known to send foodies into ecstasies, I discovered a “pop-up” market of sorts, Il Mercarto Dei Sapori. A highly-curated affair, the traveling market features tastes and traditions from all over Italy, including Liguria, Piedmont, Lombardy, Tuscany and Emilia. You’ll find fine leather goods, hand-carved soaps, local wines, oils, honeys, truffles and vinegars, and more importantly the abundance of cured and smoked meats, cheeses, handmade pastas, sweets and breads. I spent two hours sampling chocolate covered dried fruits, focaccia, cantucci and so many flavors of Italy and fell madly in love.
One extraordinary stand-out: Antico Forno Santi. Their cookies were arranged in grand baskets veiled in cloth, and they were tender, crumbly, sweet and baked to perfection. I secured a mixed bag of typical biscotti, bruto bruno (!!!) and hoards of other treats. As I type, I keep slipping my hand in this forbidden bag, itching to get on with my essay.
Posted on January 1, 2013

Happy New Year, friends! My mini respite is coming to an end as I’m back in the office tomorrow {insert wails}, but that doesn’t mean I can’t enjoy the fruits of my holiday labor. I’ve been on a bit of a bread bender lately, so after scoring a jarful of yeast I decided to go wild and make loaves of bread. And ever since I spied these lovely terracota rolls on Pastry Affair, I knew these needed to be introduced in my repertoire. Not quite savory and not quite sweet, these rolls straddle an androgynous flavor profile that makes them perfect for everything from nutella to savory, pungent cheeses. Last night I smeared cold French butter on these hot rolls and it was EVERYTHING.
INGREDIENTS: Recipe adapted from A Pastry Affair, with slight modifications
1/2 cup (118 ml) barely warm water
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
1 large egg
1 cup (245 grams) canned pumpkin puree
2 tablespoons brown sugar, packed
3 tablespoons butter, softened
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon salt
2 1/2 cups – 3 cups (318 grams) bread flour
DIRECTIONS
In a bowl of a stand mixer, fitted with a paddle attachment, sprinkle the yeast over the barely warm water and allow to sit about 5 minutes until activated (during this time the yeast will start to bubble and look frothy). Stir in egg, pumpkin puree, brown sugar, butter, spices, and salt. Gradually add bread flour, mixing until the dough comes together. If the dough is too dry and will not come together, add small amounts of water until it does. Conversely, if the dough is too sticky, add flour until it becomes workable; however, do not add too much flour or the bread will become dense. Now replace the paddle attachment with the dough hook and start to knead your dough on low speed.
Knead the dough for ten minutes, or until elastic. The dough will feel slightly sticky, but don’t worry — it will firm up as it rises. Cover dough with plastic wrap or a kitchen towel and let rise until doubled in a warm place, about 2 hours. Punch down the dough before turning out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide into 12 equal portions (I did this by rolling the dough with my hands into a log so I can get ball-sized cuts) and shape each portion into a round ball. Place in a pan (or on baking sheets) coated lightly with cooking spray. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise for another 20 minutes.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C).
Bake for 12-15 minutes, or until the tops are lightly browned and the bread sounds hollow when tapped. Serve hot.
To reheat buns, preheat oven to 400 degrees F (205 degrees C). Bake rolls for 5-8 minutes, or until hot.
Posted on December 22, 2012

We throw our parties; we abandon our families to live alone in Canada; we struggle to write books that do not change the world, despite our gifts and our unstinting efforts, our most extravagant hopes. We live our lives, do whatever we do, and then we sleep. It’s as simple and ordinary as that. A few jump out windows, or drown themselves, or take pills; more die by accident; and most of us are slowly devoured by some disease, or, if we’re very fortunate, by time itself. There’s just this for consolation: an hour here or there when our lives seem, against all odds and expectations, to burst open and give us everything we’ve ever imagined, though everyone but children (and perhaps even they) know these hours will inevitably be followed by others, far darker and more difficult. Still, we cherish the city, the morning; we hope, more than anything, for more. Heaven only knows why we love it so…― Michael Cunningham, The Hours
Who knew that half a life ago I’d be plotting the life I was never meant to live? I remember that first day, every shadow of it. Luggage stolen at Grand Central because I looked away, just for a moment, to say goodbye to that old life and oceans of dark that permanently eddied. But I didn’t care because I was running away! When I arrived in that small room I stood bag-less before a roommate who told me she didn’t trust white people. Not one bit. And I was confused because she was where I always fit; the lithe blondes with their silver lockets and closets filled with finery frightened me. They spoke a language that marked privilege: MTV, J.Crew, REM, The Hamptons. They hailed from Connecticut, Syosset and Great Neck, Long Island, and owned watches the cost of used cars. All of them seemed to know that you had to pay for your books, while I stood in line, humiliated, because I assumed they were free, like in high school. Although we shared the same pallor and lineage, we might as well have been from different dimensions. I wanted to tell my roommate this: Mary J., Slick Rick, Big Daddy Kane and BK — believe me, I understand you.
As the weeks pressed on, I moved to a new room with a girl named Jen, who liked other girls and everyone talked about it. Made a show of not changing in front of her. Said words like dyke, and although I’d read hundreds of books by the dead, this was yet another word unfamiliar to me. In response, Jen strummed her guitar, played love songs about a girl with purple hair who took tablets and tripped into the gloaming. I told my roommate I’d never known anyone who was gay before, but if I was fine by her, she was fine by me. And so it was. Fine.
When I showed Jen my handwritten stories, poems — all siren songs to a mother who would always be my first love and hurt, she laughed. What’s a writer like you doing studying economics and marketing? Who reads Virginia Woolf while memorizing ratios? Because money made it certain that I’d never return to that dark country — I can’t write my way out. Jen left the papers on my bed and we never spoke of it again. Accounting, Futures and Options, Macro/Micro Economics, Mergers and Acquisitions, Business Law — for four years I drowned in a curriculum of money, while never realizing that the waves hadn’t receded. They’d been there the whole time, and I didn’t even know it. Because people who run block out the one thing they must know: people who run always come undone. Always. After graduation there I was again, trying to breathe underwater. Trying to numb my way through the hours, the years — all to remain afloat.
And then the years. So many years. Where did they go? Why is it impossible to get them back? These days Jen is a graphic designer — far from the rockstar she always dreamed she’d be. Sometimes I wonder if she’s in love, found a girl with purple hair who wasn’t so lost. I wonder if Jen is happy.
This week makes another year in passing. I’m 37 and realizing that happiness is not pining after the happiness that could have been had you chosen to be someone or do something else. Happiness is right now. Happiness is being present every single hour of your life because there will be a time when one moment isn’t the one you’ll survive.
This year will be about breaking ranks and I’m enjoying the ride. I’ve signed up for scores of baking and cooking class, as well as a French immersion. And after baking dozens of fancy pastries and earthy loves, I’m starting to realize that bread, loaf, muffin and cake baking is where I’m at. I hope you enjoy these delicious buns as much as I have. They’re tender, delicious, a little sticky sweet, and a kind reminder that if you keep being present your passion will surface and find yuo.
INGREDIENTS: Recipe adapted from Averie Cooks
1 cup water, warmed (120 to 130F for Red Star Platinum yeast, or 105 to 115F for most other yeast)
2 1/4 teaspoons instant dry yeast (one 1/4-ounce packet, I use Red Star Platinum)
1 large egg
1/4 cup honey
3 tablespoons canola oil
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
3 1/2 cups bread flour (I use King Arthur Unbleached Bread Flour)
1 cup old-fashioned whole rolled oats (not quick cook or instant)
1 cup raisins (combination of raisins, cranberries, currants, or other dried fruit may be used)
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 tablespoons honey
DIRECTIONS
Add water to a glass measuring cup or microwave-safe bowl and heat on high power to warm it, about 30 seconds. Testing with a thermometer is highly recommended, but if testing with your finger, water should feel warm but not hot.
To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, add the water and sprinkle the yeast on top of it. Beat on low speed for about 10 seconds, just to combine; let mixture stand for 10 minutes.
Add the egg, 1/4 cup honey, oil, salt, and mix until well-combined, about 2 minutes on low to medium-low speed. Add 3 cups flour, oats, raisins, cinnamon, and beat until a dough forms. Scrape off any dough bits stuck to the paddle and remove the paddle attachment. Put on the dough hook.
With the dough hook attached, turn mixer on low speed, and slowly sprinkle in remaining 1/2 cup of flour. Knead dough for about 8 to 10 minutes, stopping to scrape down the bowl and dough hook as necessary. Dough will be firm, smooth, not sticky, and elastic. Place mounded ball of dough in a lightly greased large bowl and cover with plasticwrap. Place mounded ball of dough in a cooking sprayed or lightly greased large bowl and cover with plasticwrap. Place bowl in a warm place until it has doubled in size, about 2 hours. Tip – Preheating your oven for 1 minute to 400F, then shutting it off (make sure you shut it off), and quickly sliding the bowl in so the hot air doesn’t escape is one way to create a warm environment; think 85 or 90F summer day warm environment. A cooler environment simply means dough will take longer to rise.
After dough has risen and doubled, punch it down to release the air bubbles, and turn it out onto a Silpat or floured work surface. Knead for about 1 minute. Mound dough into a ball, place it back into the bowl, cover it, and allow it to rest and relax for about 10 minutes, making it easier to shape into rolls.
Prepare a 9-by-13-inch baking pan by lining it with aluminum foil, spray with cooking spray; set aside.
Place dough on Silpat Non-Stick Baking Mat or floured work surface, and using your hands, roll it into a long cylinder, about 16 inches in length. Divide the log into 16 uniformly-sized pieces with a dough cutter or sharp knife. Roll each piece into a ball, creating surface tension on the top of the ball by stretching the dough over itself a bit and pinch off the bottom, tucking the dough into itself. Place each piece into the prepared pan, seam side down, uniformly spaced, four rows of four. (Dough may also be rolled into just a simple ‘plain ball’, without pulling on the top surface of dough to create tension and not bothering to pinch off the bottom a bit, but I find they rise better and are fluffier if they’re pinched off rather than just round dough globes)
After all pieces are in the pan, cover it with plasticwrap and allow to dough to rise for about 1 hour, or until rolls are nearly doubled in size. While dough rises, preheat oven to 400F. A good place for this rise is placing baking pan on the stovetop while oven is preheating for the carryover warmth.
Prepare honey-butter mixture by melting butter in a microwave-safe bowl on high power, about 1 minute. To the melted butter, add 2 tablespoons honey and stir to combine; set aside. After the rolls have risen and before baking, brush tops and sides of dough with the honey-butter mixture, getting into the sides and crevices and with a pastry brush. Bake rolls for about 15 minutes or until golden; they bake up very fast and watch them closely so the honey-butter mixture doesn’t burn in this very hot oven. Allow rolls to cool before serving. Serve with Honey Butter or Cinnamon-Sugar Butter.
Rolls may be stored at room temperature in an airtight container or ziplock bag for up to 4 days. Rolls also freeze very well and can be made from start to finish, cooled, and placed in a freezer-safe airtight container or a ziplock for up to 3 months. When ready to serve, unthaw them and if desired, immediately prior to serving warm them in a low oven (~175 to 200F) for a few minutes and just until warmed.
Posted on October 29, 2012

After spending the morning on work-related conference calls (we’re working from home due to the severe weather in the NorthEast), moving all of my outdoor furniture indoors, and carefully reading weather reports and viewing graphical wind representations, I took some time to make brioche. You may think this is bizarre, however, the methodic nature of baking calms me, sets me to rights, brings me back to the world of the rational and sensible. So when I hear frantic meteorologists predicting that this storm is unlike anything we’ve ever seen, when I hear words like devastation, evacuation, flooding, I try to find center, remain calm and collected.
I invite you to try this buttery loaf with a fragrant light interior and a glossy tanned exterior. The loaf reminds me of the 1980s Ban de Soleil commercials, where a lithe model drapes her tawny legs on the sand, tosses on her hat and shades. This is a Ban de Soleil loaf, my friends, in its decadence and beautiful hue. Brioche made in a loaf tin is known as brioche nanterre, where four balls of dough (instead of two) are nestled into a tin, allowing them to bloom. Granted, the butter count is pretty lofty, however this isn’t a brioche for the weak of heart. This is a simple, divine loaf, which should be married with creamy butter, cheese or preserves.
INGREDIENTS: Recipe courtesy of Michael Paul’s Sweet Paris
2 1/2 tsp dried yeast (1 packet)
2 tbsp lukewarm water
2 tbsp caster (superfine) sugar
250g (2 cups) bread flour
1/2 tsp kosher salt
4 large eggs, lightly beaten
225g (80z, 1 stick) unsalted butter, diced, at room temperature
For the glaze: 1 egg
DIRECTIONS
Sprinkle the yeast into the water in a bowl and leave in a warm place for 5 minutes until bubbles appear.
In a separate bowl, combine the sugar, flour and salt. Pour the flour and yeast mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on a low speed and then add the eggs. Beat on low for one minute and then increase the speed to high for 10 minutes until the dough comes away from the sides of the bowl. You will be tempted to pause before 10 minutes. A word of advice: RESIST TEMPTATION. Add the butter gradually and beat for another 5 minutes until the dough is glossy and elastic.
Transfer the dough to a large bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave at room temperature for 2 hours until the dough has doubled in size. Lightly flour the surface of your counter, and lift the sticky risen dough and divide into four equal pieces. Roll each piece into a ball, kneading it until smooth. For those of you not familiar with the kneading technique, it’s simple. With one hand, grab the back of the dough with your fingers and push it back out with the heel of your hand.
Place the four balls closely, side-by-side, in a lightly buttered loaf tin approximately 9×4 inches. Cover again with a damp cloth and leave at room temperature for 1/2 hour. Pre-heat the oven to 180C/350F. When ready to bake, using a pair of scissors, cut a cross in each ball before glazing. For the glaze, beat the egg and brush over the top.
Bake for 20-25 minutes until well-risen and golden brown (be careful to not overcook! I took mine out after 20 minutes), then cool on a wire rack. Serve while still warm with creamy French butter, preserves, or a hunk of your favorite cheese.
Posted on October 10, 2012

Nearly five years ago I sat in a dark corner of BREAD and lamented over my ballooning waistline. I was flummoxed, baffled, perplexed, and other such similar adjectives. I went to yoga four days of work and my diet hadn’t changed all that much — how could this be??! As I sank further into my lamentation, my friend asked me what I eat every day.
Then the stuttering and the shame commenced. Well, I have a blueberry muffin…, to which my friend responded, EVERY DAY?, to which I retorted, Of course not! I have a bagel or croissant on weekends! And after much research I learned that I was hoovering a six-hundred calorie muffin and I was deep in a muffin addiction. My friend staged a successful intervention, and the strange this is this — I’ve never been back to BREAD since.
Until last weekend.
Before the grand Muffin Intervention of 2007, Bread Soho was my favorite chow spot. Although the service was sometimes lackluster, one could consistently rely on a tasty panini and a bowl of warm, delicious tomato soup. Rarely did I ever deviate from the basics, however, I was equally pleased by the tasty meatballs, grilled chicken and tasty salads. And who can beat a sandwich soup combo for $10?!
So last weekend I met an old colleague and we spoke of life in media res. We spoke of making dramatic life-altering changes in our 30s, when our career was supposedly defined and we were on the fast track to something, although we weren’t certain we wanted the journey. We dined outside — me and my trusted panini stuffed with salami, taleggio and olive tapenade, while she savored her favorite shrimp salad — and talked about taking risks. Talked about how we were a programmed generation living amongst another generation that was so free-spirited and ebullient we were flummoxed, perplexed, etc. We were programmed to create a very clear path and follow it without stepping outside the lines.
But as the years press on, I find myself wanting very much to leap outside the lines. Create a whole new shape.
Because, we said out loud, what’s the worse that could happen?